Strozzapreti with Tomatoes & Pancetta Sauce

There are many explanations for the name of this pasta, which means "strangle the priest"; my favorite claims the pasta was meant to fill the priest to the choking point at Sunday lunch so he wouldn't overindulge on the roast that followed. It's very difficult to cook this pasta to the perfect al dente stage: some parts will be underdone, while others will be quite soft.

Directions

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the pancetta and cook over moderately high heat until it begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion softens, about 4 minutes. Add the parsley, mint, celery leaves and red chile and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their liquid and simmer over moderately high heat, crushing the tomatoes with a wooden spoon, until the sauce is thick, about 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring, until slightly underdone. Drain the pasta lightly, then add it to the sauce and cook for about 1 1/2 minutes longer, until just al dente. Transfer the strozzapreti to a warmed bowl and pass the cheese separately.

Wine Recommendation: A straightforward red with good acidity harmonizes with this simple sauce. Consider the 1997 Grasso Barbera d'Alba or the 1997 Michele Chiarolo Barbera d'Asti, both from Piedmont.

Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Food & Wine Magazine
Copyright © American Express Publishing Corporation. All Rights Reserved
Photo image © Beatriz Da Costa

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